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Suzuki VZ800 Marauder |
CRB-S76-1.0 $89.95
(for stock air filter equipped bikes)
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STD drop-in carb recal kit
The internet's first choice.
Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more top-end power. Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling.
This kit will allow tuning for each individual bike and bolt on exhaust system.
This is the kit of choice - pulling stronger at part throttle and at throttle.
NOTE:
This main jets supplied in "1.0" this kit are set up for stock, genuine, unmodified Suzuki air filters.
The supplied main jets are too small for "Superflow" or "K&N" "stock replacement" air filters See the below "2.0" kit.
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CRB-S76-2.0 $89.95
(for K&N and some other high flow stock replacement air filters)
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STD drop-in carb recal kit FOR K&N stock replacement filters.For most bikes, adding a K&N air filter only changes the jetting a little.... but..... on this bike.... it needs a slightly different carb kit.
Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more top-end power. Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling.
This kit will allow tuning for each individual bike and bolt on exhaust system.
This is the kit of choice - pulling stronger at part throttle and at throttle.
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CRB-S76-3.0 $89.95
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3.0 kit DevelopmentNeed Non-CA located bike to tune. Need for 1 week.
1/2 on all kit, labor and all dyno work costs!!!
Call Raul 415 472-4962
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Shift
STAR kit for smoother and quicker shifting with fewer missed shifts
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SHFT-EVO-S77-STAR $144.95
fits 98-08 VL1500 and 97-04 VZ800
(shift star only, does not
include shift cover gasket)
(replaces 10F01 star)
Legacy Kit - Allow 1-2 weeks extra
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Factory Pro's awesome
Shift STAR
Banish the "Boot" shift
forever.
Includes Factory Pro's AWESOME Marc Salvisberg designed
Detent Star kit - Changes the rough shifting the Suz cruisers are well
known for into the sweetest, smoothest shifting bike in town AND the
quickest non-airshifting bike at the strip - you'll think you bought
a different bike.
Better / quicker 1-2 shifts.
Virtually eliminate missed shifts - up and down.
Quicker 3rd through top gear shifts.
Helps prevent gear and fork damage caused by missed shifts.
Perfect for drag racing
and street!
You can decrease your "shift kill" time for better ET's
It makes a "foot" shift a quick
event - Almost eliminate a missed 2nd gear shift (though if you try,
you can still miss it...)
In fact, I'd try the Factory Pro Shift STAR Kit before I pulled the engine
down to "fix" the gear dogs - as long as the gears aren't damaged
so much that the gears engage and then pop out at high rpm - that's
symptom of rounded gear dogs.
Includes:
Factory Pro designed, refined, CNC machined, heat treated DETENT
STAR, Factory
Pro's own heavy duty detent spring but NOT a new M90 clutch
cover gasket. Makes shifting
quicker and more positive - "virtually" eliminating missed shifts. The
stronger detent spring rotates the shift drum quicker and the gears
are more likely to engage under quick shift conditions - and "lazy"
shifts work well, too -
The Factory Pro Microbearing removes shift drum friction for the quickest
shifting and fewest missed shifts.
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We do not have detailed install instructions - use
a Suzuki Service Manual to aid in clutch removal.
NOTE!
Be SURE to check that the shift
detent arm does not bind when tightened up. If you shift into an
upper gear, and the bike pops out of gear, consistently - That's an
indicator of a binding shift arm. Some occasional stock bikes are so
afflicted.
If consistently, no matter how you shift, the bike pops out of 3rd,
4th or 5th gear, that's an indicator of the detent mechanism
binding.
If it pops out of only 2nd, and not any other gear, that's an
indicator, not of a binding shift arm, but a sign of worn gear dogs
on 2nd gear and the gear it mates with and the 2nd gear shift fork.
You'll find the binding detent arm problem of you follow the Golden
Rule of shift mechanisms:
1. Turning the clutch shaft (so that the gear dogs can line up)
(except Kawasakis)
2. Shift through all gears, up and down.
3.The shift star should snap into each gear with some purposefulness
(when the gear dogs line up as you turn the clutch shaft).
4. If the arm doesn't follow the star properly or anything binds,
STOP. Recheck your work and the shift mechanism's mechanicals.
5. If it doesn't shift NOW, it won't shift LATER, after you put
everything else back together.
6. It won't fix itself.
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(sample arm picture - not for ID
purposes)
pn: SHFT-ARM-24b00-CER $49.95
w/ Hybrid Ceramic Microbearing
VL1500 98-08 and VZ800 97-04
Legacy kit - allow 1-2 weeks extra
(F-Pro shift arm, does not include shift cover
gasket)
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Optional lower friction F-Pro Microbearing Detent
Arm
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(sample spring picture - not for ID
purposes)
pn: z95-13E10-spg $34.95
VL1500 98-08 and VZ800 97-04
(F-Pro shift spring, does not include shift cover
gasket)
(replaces 13E10 and 13E20 spring)
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Optional heavier spring for above EVO Shift star
and / or arm.
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(sample spring picture - not for ID
purposes)
pn: z95-13E10-spg $34.95
VL1500 98-08 and VZ800 97-04
(F-Pro shift spring, does not include shift cover
gasket)
(replaces 13E10 and 13E20 spring)
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Optional heavier spring for above EVO Shift star.
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Hint!
Ignition Advance method |
Hint! Want an ignition advance? Your VZ uses the same woodruff key (but not the same flywheel puller) as the key that is used in our SV 650 advance kit in the RTR-SUZ-36-04 part number.... So...... Buy our SV650 kit, take the woodruff key - and get your dealer to install it with the right Suzuki puller -
What I'm saying is that we don't make a kit for the VZ - but YOU can get creative and just use the key for the SV650 kit.........
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TL-float height gauge
$59.95
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General Technical Support
Feedback
Have put 130 front and 135 rear both needles 3rd from top. What a difference. It pulls much better and faster right throughout the range. Many thanks for your help.
John Clark. (uk)
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: Help needed
Hi John -
Unless you find something different, I'd keep whatever "stagger" that I said to use.
Later, if you want, you could try changing just one main at a time -
Good luck!
Marc
john wrote:
Many Thanks your info is useful, just one last thing the intruder has two different jet sizes the front is different from the rear, shall i do the same when going up sizes or do them both the same size. Also the web page you recommended is perfect for my needs. Many thanks. John Clark.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, March 07, 2005 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: Help needed
With the variability of holes and atmospheric conditions and etc....
I'd go up a few sizes in main jet and raise the needles 1 position and see how that is -
Use http://66.47.68.116/tech/carbtun.html, that's what a good tuner would do-
Keep it touch with any questions -
Thanks -
Marc
john wrote:
Hi i am in the UK and i have just fitted your stage one kit to my Suzuki VS800 1992 model.
I have standard air filters but have drilled the airboxes to increase air flow,
the exhaust are standard but have been drilled through all three baffles (mufflers).
In your opinion what wou8ld be the best set up regarding main jets and position of needles for front and rear cylinders.
I hope you can be of help.
Tue Oct 05 10:44:10 2004
From: Kevin Hattan <distraction628@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Jet kit!!!
To: Marc Salvisberg <factory2@ix.netcom.com>
Marc
Well sorry it took so long for me to get back to you on my wife's Jet kit for a Suzuki Marauder VZ800 -
Ok, the stock pilots worked out well , but I hope they still will with the open K&N, if not will you send me the
right jet for the front carb? (sure!! Marc).
Ok, this where the bike is pulling the hardest as of right now. I have the pilot screws out 1 7/8 on the rear and 2 turns out on the front carbs, needle clips, I tried 2,3,4 the 3 spot worked best over all the bike has Jardine full taper on i.
I must say that it takes 1/4 less throttle to cruise down the freeway @ 65 and the front end will come up in the first 3 gears, I never thought that would happen. lol.
I must say the throttle response is the best I have ever tuned on a V twin!
Thanks for your very great research and over all kit quality!!
Kevin
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Subject:
Jetting
Date:
Fri, 20 Aug 1999 16:21:53 -0500
From:
"_nichols" <_nichols@aic-fl.com>
To: <factory2@ix.netcom.com>
I have installed your Config 10 kit on my VS800, which has Vance and Hines slip-ons, with the quiet baffles installed.
I previously had the XXXX kit installed, and the thing ran way too rich, even after lowering the needles (the needle they supply is much shorter than stock!) As you probably are aware, the XXXX kit requires you drill the slide lift holes.
Well, after installing your kit with the slightly leaner mains supplied ( I elected to go with the set up you had with the Cobra slip-ons, step by step), the throttle response was great off idle. It used to rev very rich and wet, almost to the point of shutting off. It pulls evenly off idle in second gear, but then it seems to lean out just a tad above mid range.
So, after all this, here's my question; Is the bike transitioning too quickly to the mains because of the slides being drilled, and if so, can you compensate for it by dropping/shimming the needles, or should I raise/shim them?
Should I go back to the stock mains, or should I try the richer one's in our kit?
Or worse yet, did I trash my slides by drilling them?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have heard nothing but good things about your products, and judging by the kit I purchased, you guys are awesome! Hope to hear from you soon.
____ Nichols
72 5th Street
Shalimar, FL 32579-1367
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