Jeff Tigert's AFM SV650 from some years ago

SV650  99-02

All power products developed and tested on the EC997 Eddy Current Dynamometer using the
True Rear Wheel HP Scale
(That's the only dyno that can honestly see TRUE air fuel ratios and 4 Gas information and graph them properly - others can provide patently wrong tuning information.)

Long Boy Fuel Screw Kit
pn: CRZ-SCR-4030-M
replaces 13279-19F10

"Long Boy"
SV650 finger adjustable extended Fuel Screw assembly

Frustrated with trying to find an "almost 90 degree"  screwdriver to fine adjust your fuel screws for best idle and cruise?
Use Factory Pro's new "finger adjustable" fuel screws to adjust fuel screws for best throttle response. Traveling to high altitude? It's easy to lean out the lowend temporarily.

Make your life easier!

Installation:
Remove old short stock fuel screws, old orings, old washers and old spring. The o-ring might be stuck in the carb, so, take a light and make sure it's really out if it didn't come out with the screw (or you can't find it after you took out the screw)
Use a small bent wire to pull it out if it doesn't drop out. Keep the old parts for "spares".

Note!
For early, large knob model fuel screws.
The SV650 float bowl can be "core shifted" over towards the fuel screw. If that happened, you have to file a small relief for the screw knob. Most of the time it's not an issue.

 Each screw assembly comes with:
2 Long Boy fuel screws  CRZ-SCR-4030m
 2 new o-rings
2 new washers
2 new springs

It's everything that I ever wanted to do to a shift mechanism -
Slightly stronger custom designed F-Pro detent spring - a new MicroBearing F-Pro detent arm and the final piece... A completely redesigned, empirically refined, multi angled, variable radii, repeaked and valleyed:

EVO-7 Shift STAR

This part will totally change the feel of the bike as a whole. The shifting effort is about the same - but the speed at which the gears actually engage is dramatically improved - Quicker, easier, shifting - A "twitch" on the lever and the throttle and you are in the next gear! Perfect for track use and road riding for effortless downshifts into a corner and just a "tap" to upshift without any more than a "twitch" off the throttle - That's not even mentioning that missed shifts virtually disappear!
In town? Low rpm cruise in second - shift to third? So quick and smooth that it will surprise and amaze - NO more clunky, lazy shifting in town - As I said - it's totally different and improved -
Proven concept - Virtually all the Factory Pro Support riders in the AMA and WERA multi- Champions Vesrah Racing tested and proved the EVO-7 Stars in 2003.
Stock shift performance that everybody used to take as a "given" will be regarded as "slow and lazy" after riding a bike with this kit -
Kit includes a new detent arm with a low friction microbearing roller, a performance shift spring and the NEW Factory Pro EVO Detent Star.
Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts.
Marc

Includes: Factory Pro Shift STAR, Factory Pro Microbearing Detent Arm, Factory Pro Detent Spring and a clutch cover gasket.
(everything that's in the Pro Kit below + the Factory Pro Shift STAR)

WAY better than a gen 2 stock star! 

.........................................

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*smile* Thanks, reason I asked is that I own a shift star and the arm with BB for my SV and I love it. But at the time I ordered it you needed to make more. :D
 I'll be most likely calling you in the near future.
Michael

SHIFT TECH click here

SHFT-PRO-SUZ-36
$139.95

The microbearing arm and f-pro spring kit and clutch cover gasket.

RTR-SUZ-36-04   $99.95

Ignition Advance KEY, Installation SV650, SV1000 DL650 DL1000 Hayabusa installation and pictures

Hi-
I notice you have an advancer for the '03-'06 SV650. Will it fit the Suzuki DL650 VStrom? From what I understand the engine is very similar. I put one of your advancers on an '01 SV650 and loved the results. If the advancer works on the VStrom, can I expect similar results?
Thanks, Kurt Larson

YES, the kit works on the DL650 - Marc

(click pic to view hi res pic)

 COV-S36-RH w flat slider

$229.95

Special $50 w flat slider

Billet Clutch Cover

Cast vs. Billet Engine Covers
Billet material is "fine grained", meaning that the crystalline structure is composed of smaller,  tightly packed material. A Billet Engine Cover will endure more impact abuse without cracking.
Cast aluminum covers, in comparison, are comprised of relatively coarse grain material that is strong - right up to the point that it cracks and explodes under sharp impacts.
Abrasion resistance? No reason why either cast or billet would be better or worse - but with Factory Pro's Integrated Frame Bumper (pat. pend.) , the life of our engine covers (and your engine AND the track surface) is far superior to ANY other engine cover available.

The strongest and most protective cover you can buy. Slide on the Slider - not your billet cover! Keep your bike higher off the ground in a "lowside".  Saves water pump exterior (usually!)
Same concept as the YZF600 R6, R1 and CBR600 F4 covers (that we made at the request of the race department) that have been sweeping the AMA and amateur race circuits this year!

$229.95

Dear Marc,

Just thought I'd write to tell you I "used" the SV clutch cover I bought from you.
Lowside at about 80 mph into the runoff at a trackday. Your product took some abuse but held up beautifully.

Kept me going throughout the weekend. Good stuff, thanks!

Thanks, Alan Paryzek
June 26, 2004
 

Carb Recal Kits

CRB-S36-3.7-RK3

Config 30 RaceKit

REMOVE THE  AIRBOX

$279.95
(includes foam filters, Carb RaceKit and Tank Risers)

 Add 3-4 hp over stock air filter over a rejetted bike with a stock air filter.

Our best selling SV kit!

click to view True HP power improvements

  For applications where you wish to  REMOVE the airbox 

"RaceKit" Config 30 Carb Kit

Add 3-4 True Rear Wheel HP over properly jetted stock.

Leave it to Factory Pro to design a special kit that adds as much power as high compression pistons and cams, without decreasing low-end and midrange.

If you are trying to tune on a dj dyno, we have reports that the topend power does not show up under inertia loading.
To tune best, it is suggested to either ride the bike and choose the main jet that makes the best power at high rpm or use an EC997 or other dyno that provides realtime HP figures under load.  The dj dynos don't duplicate the load conditions that are produced under real world operating conditions, producing power numbers that can be ambiguous.

Easy to tune - requires minor carb body machining - suggest professional installer.

This kit will allow tuning for each individual bike and bolt on exhaust system.
This is the kit of choice for on and off track, if you can remove your stock airbox.

Pulls stronger at part throttle and especially at full throttle ~2-3 more True Rear Wheel HP over the above CRB-S36-2.1-APK and 3-4 or more over a stock jetted bike.

Tech: Main Air Jet location

CRB-S36-2.0
Airbox Plus Configuration carb kit for:

for user modified "OPEN TOP"
K&N race filter with stock airbox

$189.95

includes: carb kit and alloy tank risers

This is the original APK "AirBox Plus Kit"  for the SV650

It's a special Factory Pro designed kit for a modified air filter and will make 2-3 True HP over a stock jetted bike - IF properly tuned.
 (not tuned on a dealership level dyno inertia hp to an "AF ratio")

 This carb kit is not just a regular carb kit with a different main jet. This kit also includes the elegant Factory Pro Tank Riser kit.

This kit does require air filter modifications.  CHECK WITH YOUR RACING ORGANIZATION FOR LEGALITY!
This kit will allow tuning for each individual bike and bolt on exhaust system - or the stock exhaust system.br> This is the kit of choice for on and off track when you want to retain the stock airbox - pulling stronger at part throttle and especially at full throttle.
Includes:
FFactory Pro designed Tank Risers and matching Factory Pro 2.0 Carb Recal Kit.

Update:/font>

CRB-S36-1.1-ti   $99.95
The
"Ti ProKit" jet  kit

for the stock airbox 

CRB-S36-1.0
$89.95

STD drop-in carb recal kit  

TL-float height gauge

Needle Jet Rebuild

$280.00
allow 3-4 days in-house.

Call 415 883-5620
to arrange - or email

So - If your SV has started racking up the miles and seems to be getting rich and sloppy at low rpm (especially), and you can't fix by lowering the fuel level anymore - it's time to rebuild them -

So, one week, we were messin' around (I mean carefully testing components.....) and decided to work a bit on the venerable SV650.
 

So - we dynoed it, all stock exhaust, cams and carburetion and got about:

Exhausts on the SV don't normally add 10 HP - but the combination of a well designed exhaust cam + a well designed race exhaust will deliver better total power than either of the single items would, used individually.

25% HP
 Improvement
with BETTER low, mid and topend  than the stock bike!

When you use a properly designed dynamometer, like the EC997 (not a dealership level dynojet with mythical hp numbers) you can isolate and manipulate many small engine details that will ultimately produce far superior results - like this.
Maybe we should try some of the 600's next?

Parts and labor:
4 properly designed cams: $600/set of 4
1 exhaust system (price not included)
1 Factory Pro APK Carb Kit: $250
Factory Pro Carb Tuning (properly tuned)
Factory Pro Cam Install and valve adjust and the
Factory Pro Tuning on EC997 Hi Speed Dyne System

Under $2200 parts and labor?
(plus the Leo Vince exhaust system)
 for AFM race level competitive power and a helluva trackday bike.

Sure beats "high comp" "flat top pistons" and the wrong cams and complete topend disassembly for twice the money and less power......

415 883-5620

So..... what would it be like if we did porting, a bit of cylinder and head milling, cam degree dyno tuning, Factory Pro billet velocity stacks, airbox mods? Maybe 80+ True hp (90 to 94 dynojet dyno hp) with still a stock bore and CV carbs??
 

NOTE! Shifting Tech!

Shifting issues with SV650's can be seemingly random.

 It is the centering on the shift shaft that aggravates either upshifting or downshifting,

The pins are centered between fingers when the shift shaft is at rest.

<   This is not so good.

The pins are not centered between fingers when the shift shaft is at rest.

If they don't drop down fully, beyond the "pins", that prevents the "fingers" from dropping down and getting ready for the next shift.

If you've got issues - check!

Adjustable Center Shift Stud

SV650, SV1000, DL1000, TL1000
(and possibly others)
$24.95

If the shift shaft fingers aren't centered on the shift shaft, Factory Pro has the fix.

It's a special offset "centering" stud, adjustable by almost 1mm. The difference in the above example was only .31mm/.024".
More experienced mechanics will recall when almost all transmissions were equipped with parts like these. That allowed the engine builder to set the shift shaft to exactly in the center for the best possible shift performance.

Install the stud with enough threads exposed for the locknut.
Turn stud till shift shaft "fingers" are centered on detent STAR pins.
Tighten down the locknut.
Recheck indexing.

This fits all the SV650's, (and probably the 1000's)

$19.95  90149-08094-00