Long Boy Fuel Screw Kit
pn: CRZ-SCR-5020m
replaces 13279-47070
fits both 38mm CV and original Smoothbore carbs

"Long Boy"
Finger adjustable extended Fuel Screw assembly

Frustrated with trying to find an "almost 90 degree"  screwdriver to fine adjust your fuel screws for best idle and cruise?
Use Factory Pro's new "finger adjustable" fuel screws to adjust fuel screws for best throttle response. Traveling to high altitude? It's easy to lean out the lowend temporarily.

Make your life easier!

Installation:
Remove old short stock fuel screws, old o-rings, old washers and old spring. The o-ring might be stuck in the carb, so, take a light and make sure it's really out if it didn't come out with the screw (or you can't find it after you took out the screw)
Use a small bent wire to pull it out if it doesn't drop out. Keep the old parts for "spares".

Each screw assembly comes with:
4 Long Boy fuel screws 
 4 new o-rings
4 new washers
4 new springs

Carb kits

CRB-S06-1.0  $149.95

for use with the stock airbox.

Today, this kit would be called a 1.7-RK RaceKit in "Factory Pro speak".

This kit activates the Powerjet circuit (if the carbs came with a "zero" sized jet and in countries that have the powerjet circuit already activated, puts the  correct sizes of jets for the proper ratio of both the jet sizes.

If using a dynojet dyno to tune, when you actually have the proper size and ratio, you'll see a distinct "dip" at about 10,000 rpm. That's an artifact of the odd load condition that dynojet dynos are so well known for. If you "tune out" the "dj dip", with a larger main and smaller powerjet, the actual real world performance is dulled, def. enough for a rider to notice the difference. Yes, even as of 2012, a dj dyno still has the same problem.  An EC997 dyno doesn't show a dip.
It has to do with the "quick and short" load time, at full throttle only,  of the dj dyno and the amount of time it takes the carb's pwjt circuit to lift and deliver fuel. The dj load is so short and acc. is so quick, as compared to the real world, that there's a tiny amount of time that it's a bit shy in fuel.
It's not there in the real world or on an EC997 dyno that may be close to you.

Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet and powerjet is selected, more top-end power. Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling.
Note! When replacing a dj kit with Factory Pro components, be sure to replace the emulsion tubes with stock, Suzuki tubes (available from Suzuki). The dynojet emulsion tubes will not work with standard type replacement needles. The Mikuni emulsion tubes have ID numbers and the dynojet tubes are not marked with any part number. 

feedback

April 2014

Hey Marc, wanted to let you know I got it sorted.   I took them apart again and found 2 choke jets had come out of the plastic tubes where they are seated.  It had this problem when I bought it and I had put them back in but I guess I rattled a couple loose while working on it…   So on top of that here are my new settings in case you’re interested.   Main jet:  127.5 (stock) Needle position:  2.5 (shim under at position 2) Mixture screws:  2 turns out Power jet installed per CRB-S06-1.1-TI kit. K&N filter full system D&D Show and Go exhaust factory pro RTR-SUZ-4 ignition advancer   Pulls hard now at full throttle, no more lean surging at even throttle and no bog and stall at stop lights.  A bit of backfire on decel but not excessive.  Overall better across the range in the seat, will take it to the dyno and let you know what it gets.   Again, thanks for your great products and support.   Scott Hubbard

August 2012

Hey Marc......
I was able to fix that carb (broken powerjet hose barb) with an rd400 oil injector in my scrap bin and it works great!  I just wanted to say thanks again for everything and taking time out to help. Seems like its hard to find people like you these days so keep up the good work! As for the bike I was amazed at how well it runs right out of the box. It is the best this bike has ever ran!!! This is my friends bike and he has owned it since 93. It was 2 years old when he got it and seems like it never ran right. He had some motor work done back then and had several dealers try to tune it to no avail. It was pushed in the corner and still looks new and has not been started in 12 years. I have many bikes and over the years learned all I could to keep them going and felt like I was much farther along now as a mechanic than I was 12 years ago, so I convinced my friend this was the year when he could ride his 91 alongside  my 89 once again! To cut this long story short your kit and advice has made two middle aged dudes feel like twenty somethings again and my friend can hardly contain himself ! I will be trashing the dynojet kit out of my 89 soon for a Factory Pro!                                     Cheers!!!               Ken Crist

CRB-S06-1.1-TI   $169.95

for use with the stock airbox.

Same as above, but........

Titanium needles and Stainless steel allen screws for the float bowls. Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more top-end power. Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling!
Note! When replacing a dj kit with Factory Pro components, be sure to replace the emulsion tubes with stock, Suzuki tubes (available from Suzuki). The dynojet emulsion tubes will not work with standard needles. The Mikuni emulsion tubes have ID numbers and the dynojet tubes are not marked with any part number.
 

CRB-S06-3.0   $149.95

for use with pod filters.

For the best top-end power (+2-3 True HP). Good low-end and midrange. Requires removal of stock airbox and running BMC 2922 or K&N equivalent individual air filters. Otherwise, it is a drop-in kit.
The powerjet circuit, due to the reduced pressure applied to the pj circuit, doesn't function at the same importance as the kits that use the stock airbox.

Note! When replacing a dj kit with Factory Pro components, be sure to replace the emulsion tubes with stock, Suzuki tubes (available from Suzuki). The dynojet emulsion tubes will not work with standard needles. The Mikuni emulsion tubes have ID numbers and the dynojet tubes are not marked with any part number.

Ignition Advance / Advancer / rotor kits

RTR-SUZ-1   $109.95

This standard kit rotor advances the timing 1.5 degrees. With stock engines with stock compression ratios, there is more power everywhere. Part throttle power is better - helping corner exit speeds. Improved in-town drivability.

SHFT-PRO-SUZ-3  $139.95
F-Pro steel microbearing detent arm, F-Pro shift spring, oil pan gasket

(add $20 for Hybrid ceramic bearing upgrade)

("Legacy kit" - allow 2 weeks for building)

Microbearing Trans Detent Arm and Spring and oil pan gasket kit

Make shifting quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts. This is exactly the same type of kit that Yamaha Racing has used.

Note:
This kit will not fix a damaged transmission - If the bike is constantly kicking out of second gear, you really need to split the cases and replace 2nd gear, the gear it mates with and the second gear shift fork.

SHFT-SUZ-3  $54.95

F-Pro shift spring, oil pan gasket

Trans Shift Spring and oil pan gasket Kit

Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts. This is exactly the same type of kit that Yamaha Racing has used.

Note:
This kit will not fix a damaged transmission - If the bike is constantly kicking out of second gear, you really need to split the cases and replace 2nd gear, the gear it mates with and the second gear shift fork.

Emulsion tubes / needle jets

Needle jets

Needle jet
(also called emulsion tube)

415 883-5620

Suzuki part number:   .JET, NEEDLE (O-8)      09494-00677

carb tools

TL-float height gauge
$59.95

How to set floats