zx6rr, zx6r(636), 03-04, fuel injection, tuning, factory pro, eddy current, dynamometer, ec997

V Stacks! - zx6rr 600 and zx6r 636
(click pic) ZX6r 636cc RA-VEL-K36-1521 patented $429.95 1. Choose your shipping method 2. ZX6rr 600cc RA-VEL-K36-1515 patented $329.95 1. Choose your shipping method 2. I have already installed them in my bike.. they work amazingly. I love the sound. Anything other products you guys have for a 2004 Kawasaki Zx 6R 636?? Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 1:31 PM To: KOWALEK Robert -PICKERING	What has Factory Pro been doing? Well, just like we did for the r6's and cbr600rr's in the past, we've spent the winter attacking power projects. This year, we selected a 600 / 636 Kaw. Using the Realtime power and realtime 4 gas displaying EC997 dyne system, we've managed to develop this system that produces better power than the Kaw "kit" parts. No internal engine mods - no power "commander" - just good tuning procedures and a dyne system that will allow tuning on our part that improved power in .1 to .2 TRUE HP increments..... This was a total of less than 8 hours of testing......... Try that on a tuning by dynojet guesswork!!! To get approximate djhp, multiply TRUE HP by 1.15 to 1.2, depending on which particular individual dj dyno you want to match - a high or low reading one. (OK - I'll help - it's 121 to to 126.4 corrected djhp) all w/ no internal engine mods) It's over 5 TRUE hp ABOVE what you'd have with a competition exhaust on your 636. On pump premium. Add some of the new NON-AMA legal 2004 race fuels and improve that by 8%-9% (113 to 115 TRUE HP or about 130 djhp, depending on the dynojet dyno). Oh! And, thanks to the EVO Shift STAR, this 636 just takes a tap on the shifter, shifts like butter and will miss far fewer shifts under tough conditions and is far less clunky in town - That means that you won't be sitting on the sidelines waiting for parts to rebuild your rounded gears and bent shift forks... Call Kaw and ask them to carry the EVO kit as a Kit part........ As far as protection goes...... The Factory Pro Billet Engine Covers w/ Integrated Sliders will do the best job possible to lessen engine damage in a crash - Nearly every amateur race organization requires them and it's time for the AMA to step up to the plate and help protect riders and tracks from oil on the track.... Might even help with television coverage scheduling - (it will). EC997 Dyne System TRUE HP dyne test files Base Test w/ comp exhaust and race type air filter Final (as of Jan 12, 2004) w/ Factory Pro Tuning stacks (rh click to save in STP format)
	636 Feedback Let me start off by saying this... WOW! That's an understatement!! Throttle response is crazy responsive, the intake now has a TRUE KAWASAKI HOWL and the bike sounds MEAN! Even idle is different, its like the engine has a new attitude... no joke either... I know those statements sound overrated... However upon my first test ride I was amazed, The bike was alive... Bottom end had a mean grunt to it and getting up on the rpm band gave me chills... The intake sounds like darth vader having an asthma attack Mid Range and Top end now bite... crack the throttle wide open and you'll see sky quicker than you can exhale! In fact I ended up riding until just about 10 minutes ago because I was having so much FUN... I can't believe how much these velocity stacks have woken up the motor... truly worth every single penny! NO LIES, it gives REAL HP not to mention the sound and throttle response alone are worth it, but I don't need a dyno to tell me she hauls more ass now... because the grin on my face says it all This is A MUST DO MOD! SERIOUSLY YOU WON'T REGRET IT, and you will kick your a** for everyday you didn't do it! KawiKushi

Ignition Advance Rotor

adds a bit more low and mid and good topend RTR-KAW-36-02 $xx.xx DISCONTINUED 1. Choose your shipping method 2.	This simple, bolt-on advance kit advances the timing. With stock engines with stock compression ratios, there is more power everywhere. Part throttle power is better - helping corner exit speeds. Improved in-town drivability and quicker warm-up. +2 is the usually recommended advance for this year bike.
Air Filter, cleanable
BMC Air Filter FIB-KAW-32304R $89.95 International buyers will be billed additional $20 for shipping	BMC Race Filters in stock Call 800 869-0497 to order Factory Pro and BMC have produced the finest cleanable air filters available. Manufactured in Europe to craftsman's standards, if any filter would last 1,000,000 miles - these would! Goes well with the above stacks kits. Increase airflow for more power!
Engine Covers, Billet Alloy , with patented Integrated Frame Sliders!
COV-K36-LH-KT $289.95 SPECIAL $100! w/ Integrated Sliders! International buyers will be billed additional $24 for shipping	NEW - EXCLUSIVE! Billet Engine Covers with Integrated Sliders! (pat #6,637,787) Absolutely the strongest cover you can buy - and has the highest strength / weight ratio available! Exclusive Super tough Hi Tech replaceable insert takes the damage! Hi-Tech flycut surfaces can be polished to a brilliant sheen for the ultimate in show! Does not require a new gasket. The stock cover grinds through more easily than the Factory Pro cover when "low sided" on the right side of the bike. If the stock cover breaks, the bike settles even lower and the radiator becomes even more vulnerable to damage . Hi Marc, I ran Factory Pro engine covers on my rookie season in 2005 as a Novice rider with the CMRA. As you know us rookies tend to crash a bit more than others. I'm sure I'm not the first to say the covers and sliders ROCK! On several lowsides throughout the season the bike slid on the sliders and never once tumbled. I contribute this to the position on the slider on the bike. Friends with conventional sliders found the slider digging in and flipping the bike causing much damage. Needless to say, my season ended in one Championship and two 3rd places. CMRA seen fit to bump me to expert in 2006. I purchased two brand new GSXR's and have already installed Factory Pro covers on the one through RaceworX in Dallas. Unfortunately I had the chance once again on December 20th at MSR Houston to test them out. Once again they performed great!!!! The bike slid on the slider. Beside a few scrapes on the plastic the bike was not damaged. With this said I feel like I could represent your product with much confidence! If you offer a support program I would be glad to participate. As I said, I have already purchased a set for the Superbike. I'm only in need of a left side stator cover for the 06 GSXR 1000. Attached is a copy of my resume along with a rendering on the new paint scheme for the 2006 season. I feel the your product has saved me a ton of $$$$ in crash repairs over the past season. I Thanks again, Marv Esterly CMRA #496 Expert
Transmission, Shift improvement
SHFT-EVO-K36-KT $239.95 k36 star, k1243 arm, k59 collar, z95-k045 spring, screw and shim 1. Choose your shipping method 2.	EVO SHIFT STAR kit *Drop this kit in (have to remove the clutch basket, not split cases) and missed shifts almost disappear and shift is quicker, too* Oh, the shift star works great. I mean the Kawis have always been a bear to shift. And the EVO cleared that up. Love it - Thanks - Douglas Isham Ã¢â‚¬Â¦ *blogging......* As a professional engine builder (but less and less these days, marc), I've done most everything you can do to a set of gears, and shafts. A great (read as 5 to 10 hours of labor) gearbox job generally includes: Shimming to minimize lateral play on the gears. (to builder's judgment) Shimming to move each fixed gear closer to it's sliding mate (but not too close) (to builder's judgment) Shimming shafts to move the assembly closer to an optimum position. (to builder's judgment) Using a surface grinder to make your own custom thickness shims. Making sure that you place the "rounded" side of the circlips against any shim or gear That puts the "sharp" edge of the circlip nicely in the circlip retaining groove on the transmission shaft so it doesn't "ramp out" under side loading.. Checking and adjusting shift mechanism "fingers" on the shift star "pins". (to builder's judgment) Checking, replacing gears with worn engagement dogs and slots - or undercutting worn engagement dogs. I tend to try to use as little angle on the undercut, as the more undercut angle, the more you have to let off the power to get the gears to separate - important when not using a "quickshifter" or "air shifter". Deburring of most gears, most shafts, the shift drum and the shift forks A commercial facility, such as Supertech, owned by the iconic Dennis Zickrick, in Colorado, does metal finishing and low friction coatings. I don't recommend cryogenically treating powdered metal gears, like most Japanese type gears are - I don't feel it's a good use of the process. I know that I'll get some flack on that. I'm not saying that "cryo" is bad, as I do use it at times for pistons, springs, knives, unfinished gun barrels... just not powdered metal gears or large finished machined castings. Additionally, separate from the gears and shafts, there's the shift mechanism (shift shaft, selector device, shift fingers, detent arm and spring, detent star) Checking straightness of shift shaft (sometimes they get bent on the left, shift linkage / rear set side) Polishing sliding parts in the shift mechanism (to decrease friction of shift drum rotation - and "quicker is better") Reducing friction of the detent arm (arm needs a bearing - which we make as a model requires and "quicker is better") optimizing detent arm spring pressure (if the spring pressure should be changed, we make - and "quicker is better") optimizing detent ramps (if the ramps aren't right, we make replacement "stars" - making it "quicker") Adding an EVO Shift STAR kit - In general, if the gearbox is setup "alright" (I would say that most stock, original, undamaged transmissiona are "alright"), that just adding the EVO Shift STAR kit is going to be 80% to 90% of what is theoretically possible in improving shifting quickness, reducing missed shifts, decreasing rider effort and protecting the shift forks and gear engagement dogs from damage caused by missed shifts. How do you know that a transmission is shifting quicker and more reliably? You can feel it when riding. Even when hand shifting on the bench, it's easier to get out of gear and "snicks" into gear, rather than "clunks" into gear (yes, most Kaws won't shift into 2nd unless the output shaft is spinning :-) You notice that you only have time to slightly "twitch" the throttle off a teeny bit between shifts and hardly have time to pull the clutch lever even a little before the bike's already in the next gear. You "try" to miss a shift on bench or riding and almost can't. Your "quickshifter" equipped bike shifts clunkily after an EVO Shift STAR kit install and you have to decrease "shift kill time" by 15 to 20ms to accommodate the EVO STAR's quicker shifting. That 15 to 20ms is now converted to "engine power" time, rather than "engine kill" time. That will improve power delivery time on a racetrack and at the drags. Funny story - an AMA team called up and said the bike's shifted awfully clunky after the Shift STAR - I was mystified and in talking, we couldn't figure out why the riders claimed the clunkiness - as in the pits, it was def. quicker - and didn't even think to ask about whether they were using a quickshifter. They called up later and said that they figured out that the "quickshifter" was now killing the power too long and it was perfect when they decreased the shift kill time. BTW - for roadracing, a perfect QS system will have several factors to program. Should still be pretty easy to sort out - and there's nothing commercially available as or Feb 2009, and that includes the guy who supposedly built his own Suzuki ecu, (well, he did make the box at least - the ECU seemed to be a repackaged EFI Technologies ECU according to the software) on the market that's "right" for roadracing, though most all are are fine for drag racing and "alright" for roadracing. Imagine Last lap, last corner, 110 mph, two wheel drift... passing on the outside, bike carefully controlled by just the subtlest of weight transfer and just a "fingers touch" on the throttle... you run out of rpm and need to upshift to complete the pass.... you need to shift.... it's ok.... a tap and you are in the 4th, still in a drift....... you keep slightly pulling... around.... slowly past.... you win. EVO-7 Shift STAR Kit! Includes Factory's AWESOME Detent Star - Totally changes the rough shifting the Kaw 6's are known for into the sweetest shifting Kaw - The one you've always wanted! Includes: Factory Pro designed, refined and manufactured DETENT STAR, Factory Pro Microbearing Detent Arm, heavy duty detent spring and gasket. Makes shifting quicker and more positive - "virtually" eliminating those nasty missed shifts. The stronger detent spring rotates the shift drum quicker, so the gears are more likely to engage under quick shift conditions - and "lazy" ones, too - The Factory Pro Microbearing removes friction for the quickest shifting. The closest to a "paddle shifter" for a motorcycle that you will ever find!! Tech Notes Bay Area Rider's Forum install instructions - click here
	Click here to open a new window and go to Factory Pro's Performance Friction Brakes page
Hi Marc, I want you to know that I was really impressed with the shift kit in my Kawasaki 636 ZX 6R. The bike (not me) has missed shifts before and once I got the kit in it not only didn't miss anymore but felt smooth and positive and actually easier all around to shift it. The best part of it was I just didn't have any attention on it at all. Thank you for making such a fine product. It WORKS. Keith Code California Superbike School ********************* Hi Marc, Just wanted to let you know that your EVO-7 Shift Star Kit ROCKS! I've been having problems getting a lot of missed shifts between 3 & 4th gears in my 636 and after installing your kit, the problem is 100% GONE. I raced out at Streets of Willow this past weekend and didn't have one single missed shift anywhere and the positive engagement feel is perfect. Thanks for making my 636 an even better bike! Gary Milcheck Phoenix, AZ More Shift STAR FEEDBACK**

This Carb Recal Kit developed on the same EC997a Eddy Current dyno that developed the K59-1.7-RK ZX-6R RaceKit (Muzzy and Kinko's choice), the Y73-1.7-RK YZF750 (Vance and Hines choice), S37-1.7-RK GSXR750, Suzuki of France and most of America's privateer racers choice)...

Do not download this and expect it to work like gangbusters!
These are for the Kawasaki "kit" ECU on a bike that used an Akrapovic exhaust and a stock air filter and they ARE basic - and NOT final OR optimized!

Thanks to all who helped me get to this level.
Keith Code and the California Superbike School
Kawasaki
Dunlop
Silkolene
AGV Sports
KBC Helmets
Sharkskinz
Elka Shocks
GP Suspension
Factory Pro Tuning
Graves Motorsports
Mackie's
Yin's TKD

Well the moon and all the stars have gone into alignment for me and I will be contesting 11 rounds of the WSMC with an eye towards the class championship in four classes. F-40, 650 Superbike, 750 Superstock, and 750 Mod. Prod. This weekend was the first round and here is how it went;

The first race was 750 mod. Prod. And having no points in the class from last year I was gridded in the last row, fortunately that was only the fourth row. This was my first race on slicks and I was very nervous about it. I got a good start and was in second on the first lap behind Cory Eaton about two seconds back. We started going through lappers on the third lap and by the end of the fourth lap I was right behind him. He got balked in turn eight on the fifth lap and I took the lead. He came right back by on the front straight and I stayed on his tail through one and two, then going into three I got up the inside and took the lead back. I was very excited to be in the lead and put my head down through to turn nine. I got on the gas a little hard and it started sliding before the apex, which was just enough to throw off my exit and I went through the dirt into the pit lane and barely got it turned back onto the front straight. That was all Cory needed and he got me by a wheel at the line. 2^nd.

Next was F-40 one race after. I got a good start from the second row and was second into one and first at the exit. I was going to try to put in some faster laps with the clear track and did for the first two. On the third lap I saw the fuel light on the dash and remembered I didn't fuel the bike, OUCH! I put it in sixth and tried to baby it in, luckily I had done two sessions on Saturday no brakes and I knew I could run 28s with no brakes in sixth. So with the brakes and three laps to go I was praying no one would catch me and I would have enough fuel to finish. I did and they didn't so I won. 1^st.

Next was 750 Superstock, this is the race I lost by a wheel last month and two seconds in November riding my 636 Kawasaki. Registration had some problems and when I looked at the grid I wasn't on it. I went in and got that fixed but they didn't want to grid me in my points position and instead put me at the back of the grid on the fifth row. GROAN. I was freaked out about being in the back and put my mindset switch in the KILL position. I got off with the group and into one on the outside. I have no idea how I did it but going into three on the first lap I was fourth! Second by the end of the first lap and shadowed Cory Eaton for the next four laps. On the white flag lap I took the lead into three and got under a lapper just after the apex of four and blistered to the line for the win. Latter I found out the lapper had held Cory up until six but by then I was gone. 1^st.

My last race was 650 Superbike. I was feeling good after the first three races and was ready for Chris Siglin. I got off good and was second on the first lap. My plan was to do the same thing and just follow the leader and only race on the last lap. At the start of the third lap Palazzo came up the inside of me entering one, I was able to hold him off but now it was time to go. I got Chris into eight but that was when I realized I had the suspension set up for slicks and I was now on 208's and there went the rear end and they both got me into one. I had the bike sideways in eight twice and was getting spooked. I hung on and thought we might have a dash to the line with me getting the double draft. I went into eight about twenty feet behind and right in the middle of eight the rear let go and got about 6 inches out before I caught it. That was it, they got at least 50 feet more in an instant and I lost the draft. Too bad because Chris got sideways out of nine and they both shut off, if only I had been closer. I finished third a half second back.

I called earlier today looking for you but i was told you were in the middle of R&D.

I appreciate everything you have helped me with regarding your race 04 ZX6RR, the Shift STAR shift kit you recommended works like a dream. Real smooth shift with little effort.

The reason for my call was I wanted to ask you when do you think you will have an ignition advancer available and what timing do you recommend. I was thinking 4 degrees, what is your take. I don't have a dyno to see what works, so im looking forward to your expert advise. Thank you again and God bless.

Sincerely,
Ivan Gabriel
Cycle City ltd.

The 114.8 djhp that this zx6rr made in it's "pre-engine mod" stage 1, was the result of specially designed velocity stacks that we made for it, a specially modified ignition rotor to eliminate the max +/-5 degree limit that the KRT "kit" junior software has, a BMC RACE filter, a very easily tuned KRT "kit" ECU, an Akrapovic exhaust and we used an EC997 Low Inertia dynamometer to derive optimal power settings.
It made that 114.8 djhp using standard, Los Angeles, low octane, low emission, California pump premium fuel (unspecified fuel type in the article).
It started out at about 100 djhp, with stock exhaust, as measured on the same dynojet dyno.
It was not simply "the only other addition was a Kawasaki kit ECU, as the article states.

Regarding the Kawasaki KRT "kit" ECU: The article states that "only a handful of people have experience with it" - It's not that hard to use - They even were able to use the ignition part of it, so, even they can tune it - with no previous experience. Since the kit ECU controls fuel, and they could tune the ECU, why leave a power commander installed? (a dynojet dyno can't provide adequate information? just curious)

The bike ended up running VP Ultimate 4 fuel- an awesome fuel for adding power! It's 6% to 8% extra oxygen content over plain fuels generates 6% to 8% better power - all by itself.
(if one added VP Ultimate 4 to the 114.8 djhp that it made with good tuning on pump gas.... 114.8 + 6% to 8% = 121.7 to 124 djhp)

The bike made, according to the text, "an incredible 124.7 bhp @ 14,000 rpm" -
'BHP" means "brake horsepower" as in on a load dyno - not an inertia dyno horsepower value.
There must be a difference, as the dynojet dynos read djhp, which is significantly higher than true hp - about 15% at the 100 true hp level, depending on which dynojet dyno you are comparing it to.

The graph doesn't show 124.7 peak power at 14,000 rpm - it shows 126ish - 127ish at 14,500 - 14,600 rpm.

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	The extension of the laboratory for engines of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology was completed in about 1935. Its architect was Rudolf Otto Salvisberg (1882-1940). He had a successful career in Berlin but returned to Switzerland after the advent of the Nazis. His architectural style was somewhat similar to that of Erich Mendelsohn. The staircase of the laboratory is in normal use but well preserved. Edited to the tunes of Chemical Residue by Herbie Hancock.

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	Marin French Cheese Co., also known as The Cheese Factory and Rouge et Noir is not just the oldest cheese manufacturer in the country, but a vacationers and day trippers destination as well as a unique part of American History. Located north of San Francisco, east of Napa County, west of Pt. Reyes and Olema and south of Sonoma County, Marin French has produced hand crafted Artisan soft ripened cheese since 1865. Rouge et Noir cheeses are similar to French and European varieties but reflect the characteristics of Northern California, producing it's own regional style.