Billet Superflare Velocity Stacks (patented FP quickchange design)

06-07 gsxr750 Factory Pro
Billet Superflaretm Velocity Stacks

The combination of specific lengths, shapes and cross sectional values is what makes it all work. We tested from 15mm to 80mm lengths in pairs in 5 and 10mm increments on an EC997 dyno. The interesting thing is that even a 10mm change in length on just 2 of the stacks ruined the perfectly smooth shape of the curve - and helped no single part of the rpm band.
Interesting.
I used to think, from what I had read about "velocity stacks", that one could grab a flow bench and a calculator and whip out a perfect set of stacks.
 I was wrong to think that - now I know.

But that's all good. I know that you simply have to try to make Best Power. It's the same with "tuning to an af ratio". We tried that and it usually failed in real world proof -  we tune to Best Power now. 

Billet Superflare tm Velocity Stacks
(patent issued 10/2007 quickchange mount system)\

How about adding a big chunk of midrange -  Start the power peak width earlier.

Billet Stack peak? Hmm... The same as stock.
 original peak: ~117.7 peak True @ 14,000
Factory Pro stack ~117.7 peak True @ 14,000
BUT! The Factory Pro stacks are over 117 True HP over the 12,000, 13,000 and 14,000 range rather just at little peak at 14,000 rpm - a much wider spread of peak power. MUCH better acceleration!

No fuel injection adjustments were done in these 750 tests.
If one dyno tunes to Best Power, results may be a bit better. If dyno tuned "to an AF ratio" instead of Best Power, your will get less of a power improvement.
The point is, that you could install these stacks and still get a very good HP improvement - even without a PC3 or other tuning device - even though optimal results will be attained with proper tuning top Best Power settings.

The power range, as is becoming a trademark of Factory Pro's EC997 dyno R&D based procedures, features a much stronger upper midrange. At 9,000, 10,000, 11,000 and 12,000 rpms, we gained between 3 to 5 True HP.
The rest of the powerband, was as good as or 1 to 2 True HP better than stock.

As is becoming more and more commonly known, this power may or may not show up on a common dealership level dyno - even though the rider feels it and you can see it on a proper load dyno, like the EC997 dyno. It's not a stack problem, it's a dealership level dyno accuracy problem. It's the reason why F-USA / ASRA uses the EC997 dyno to measure True HP and no longer uses a dealership level dyno for race power testing. The EC997 dyno is the same dyno that National #1 Vesrah Racing, Robert Jensen and AMA race winning Xxxxxx Racing uses.

The new quickchange patented Factory Pro Billet stacks will launch your new Suz into "Best in Class" True HP range - even with a stock exhaust!! Hmmm.... Well, since Suzuki is the only one making a high hp 750.... let's just say that you will have  a much quicker Suzuki 750!  The 06-07 gsxr's are in a class by themselves.

pn:  VEL-S51-3080

$329.95

Stack Test Dyno Chart >>>>>

#1: Green - all stock bike

all stock bike with stock exhaust and stock Suzuki velocity stacks

#2: BLUE - Stacks only

BIG mid and upper mid gains.
Billet Stack peak, still with stock exhaust = The same as stock.
 original peak: ~117.7 peak True @ 14,000
Factory Pro stack ~117.7 peak True @ 12k-14k

BUT!
The Factory Pro stacks are 117+ True HP over the 12,000, 13,000 and 14,000 range rather just at 14,000 rpm - much wider spread of peak power and + 6 to 8 in midrange.

#3: RED - Stacks and Leo Vince exhaust

Same bike, same stack, but we added a Leo Vince exhaust system - We got a 12 True HP from stock boost at 10,000. 12 HP is pretty remarkable - I've seen the same setup gain anywhere between a gain of 8 - 10 and up to 12 hp at 10,000 indicated rpm. Peak power gained 6-7 total over stock at 12,000+ indicated rpm.
GREAT addition!

Ignition Advance Plate kit

Factory Pro Ignition Advance Plate

Pretty easy to install -

Adding  a +4 plate will generally perk up the mighty 750 to the tune of 1-3 more True HP when measured under full load (that's the proper way to measure real world power)
Part throttle power (power out of a corner) is also better. If one installs a pc and electronically adds +4, the ignition "scatter" problems often negate the benefit of the more proper timing.

06-07 Verified fitment

Below: A different bike than above, RTR-SUZ-37-04 Ignition Advance on a stock engine with
 pipe and both with Factory Pro Superflare Velocity stacks
 

This advance kit really advances the ignition timing.
This simple, bolt-on advance kit advances the timing 6 degrees. With stock engines with stock compression ratios, there is more power everywhere. Part throttle power is better - helping corner exit speeds. Improved in-town driveability and quicker warm up.
Installation instructions w/ large pics - click here

Power Commander Ignition Module SCALING Notes

(as of 2018)

In my experience, the Power Commander Ignition module "says" +/- "10", but it really only seems to change the ignition timing about +/-2-3 degrees (as of at least 09/19).  This was backed up by a DJ importer's experience.
According to a customer, dj told him  that ignition timing, doesn't affect power very much.
That's just wrong.
Factory Pro has over 30 years of research and development in high accuracy tuning in general and 20 years in producing Ignition Advancers (which REALLY DO change the ignition timing!)  and we've been producing dynamometers that read to .1 and .2 HP increments.

Testing on real load dyno, under realistic load, multiple DJ Ignition Modules on 600's and 1000's show that DJ +10  to DJ -10 "DJ degrees" equals around a 1% to 2% HP spread.
How could you change ignition timing a supposed "TWENTY DEGREES" and only affect the HP by 1% to 2%????

You can't change the ignition timing 20 degrees and only affect the power by a couple percent -  That's an obvious fact.
If you had "Best Power" ignition timing set and you retard or advance the timing a REAL 10 degrees, the bike world hardly run, losing around 10% - 20% True HP  if you retarded it.
if you advanced it a real 10 degrees, you'd lose a bunch of power, too and also, likely, give it fits of detonation.

Now - I'm still perplexed about the guy who posted that he gained 7 HP on his dynojet dyno with a "+5" setting on his DJ Ign Module!.   5 DJ degrees /  about 1 REAL degree = 5 hp? and also perplexed about the ignition map that I got from a DJ sponsored Race team that showed +1 and +2 and -1's in their "official"  map! Lessee? They changed the ignition timing a miniscule  real .2 degree and they could see that hp change?
The 06 R6 that we were working on? It actually wanted more than 10 "dynojet degrees" in quite a few every part throttle positions for Best Power settings and all of the full throttle settings ended up at +5 to +10 "dynojet degrees". Compare that to the zero settings at full throttle that were supplied and the +1, +2 an +3 "dj degree" settings that were supplied.

A significant ignition timing change, that power can be measured would MAYBE be a real 1 degree - but you can only measure the HP change if the fuel mixture is absolutely PERFECT for Best power (NOT to misleading dealership level "AFR tuning") already -

 Normally, a REAL 2 degrees ignition timing change will change the power (on a Perfectly fueled engine) by about 1%.

(example 100 True HP > 101 True HP if a "good direction change" OR 99 True HP if it was "the wrong 2 deg direction change").

When tuning on an EC997 dyno, (which has the capability of measuring .1 to .2 HP changes), essentially, there are only a couple of DJ Ign Module settings:

Zero
+5 Dynojet degrees or
+10 Dynojet degrees
and maybe "7" if "5" and "10" make the same power

"5 Dynojet degrees = about 2 Real degrees"

So - what does that tell you?
That you need to do testing on a high quality dyne system.
Then, you too, can learn all these "unpopular" facts!
We helped Jordan Racing develop into the top ranked AMA team they are. 

Best regards - Marc